The First Ever Mauna Lani Culinary Classic Coming Right Up
Many of us Angelenos have been to Hawaii, and many of us also have that place. The Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection, is mine. It charms. It seduces. It gets under your skin. It begins with the place. The hotel is situated on the Kohala Coast in Kalahuipua’a, a historic park. You can walk the sacred trail of the King Kamehameha as it threads its way through the ancient fishponds. A green sea turtle nursery teems with rescued turtles. In the gorgeous bay, humpback whales return year after year. Danny Akaka, a treasured cultural ambassador, has his own Talk Story corner in the soaring plant-filled lobby. Many of the staff have been there decades, considering themselves stewards of the property, and you can tell.
Many of us Angelenos have been to Hawaii, and many of us also have that hotel. The Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection, is mine. It charms. It seduces. It gets under your skin.
It begins with the place. The resort is situated on the Kohala Coast in Kalāhuipua'a, a historic park. You can walk the sacred trail of the King Kamehameha as it threads its way through the ancient fishponds. A green sea turtle nursery teems with rescued turtles. In the gorgeous bay, humpback whales return year after year. Danny Akaka, a treasured cultural ambassador, has his own Talk Story corner in the soaring plant-filled lobby. Many of the staff have been there decades, considering themselves stewards of the property, and you can tell.
Though the hotel’s main building has been completely reimagined and recreated, it retains that respect for Big Island culture and a very tangible sense of place. CanoeHouse, its iconic restaurant, is its beating heart.
Originally the restaurant was a rangy shack that stored canoes for the likes of golfer Francis Hyde I’I Brown, surfer Duke Kahanamoku and Babe Ruth. Over the 30 years since then, it became nothing less than the birthplace of Hawaiian Regional Cuisine. CanoeHouse will host the first Mauna Lani Culinary Classic over Labor Day Weekend, three days studded with spectacular chefs and events.
Bruce Bromberg, co-owner of Blue Ribbon Sushi and one of the founding spirits of the Culinary Classic, also fell under the Mauna Lani spell.
As he told me, he was innocently doing a chef collab at CanoeHouse, minding his own business and completely unaware of the real estate agent his wife was talking to in the dining room. By the time he came out of the kitchen though, he owned a house down the street, and he and his family have been there ever since.
“The Culinary Classic is about putting together chefs and brands that speak to the same spirit,” Bruce says. “Like Jonathan Waxman, who’s one of my oldest dearest friends. It was just about putting together these like-minded people to create a really exciting event. We have Tiffany Derry (James Beard Best Chef: Texas and Best New Restaurant) and Stephanie Izard (Girl and the Goat). Lee Anne Wong (Top Chef semi-finalist), who’s been another good friend of mine for many years…it’s about bringing these great brands (like CanoeHouse, Blue Ribbon, Girl & the Goat, Barbuto and Bon Appétit) and great chefs together.
“I’ve always felt that the Big Island doesn’t quite get the love that Maui and Oahu gets,” he added. “But we have all the farms and most of the fishing…. we have one of the the biggest cattle ranch in the United States (Parker Ranch). We have all the coffee from Kona, the aquaculture (like Blue Ocean Mariculture, a Kanpachi fish farm just down the road). It’s been fun for me to reach out to local chefs too and say, hey, we’re doing this super cool thing. Come and bring your products. Be what you do.”
Mark Libunao, Executive Chef of Canoe House is stoked as well. After training under Chef Matt Raso, the Nobu-trained chef who helped evolve CanoeHouse’s signature fusion cuisine, Mark Libunao took over as Executive Chef. Raised in Kaʻū, HI, and before that, the Philippines, he said he’s happy to be back close to home. Speaking with him, I could also tell how important it is that local chefs are involved in the first Culinary Classic, as well as such stars as Andrew Zimmern (four-time James Beard Award winner), Jose Garces (Iron Chef and Best Chef: Mid Atlantic), Sheldon Simeon (Top Chef winner) and Vitaly Paley (Iron Chef and James Beard Best Chef: Northwest/Hawaii).
“It’s going to make Mauna Lani the top culinary destination here on the Big Island,” Mark said. “And that’s a big thing for us. For three days, we’re going to take our guests on a very different journey.”
The Mauna Lani has always made a point to be close to the community, involving them in the hotel itself, and working closely with local elders to manage the sacred land. They’ve also given back through such programs as the Culinary Garden at Waimea Middle School. Working with Māla'ai, a local nonprofit, the garden was created as an outdoor living classroom, “reaching beyond the garden, connecting stewardship, culture, health and pleasure with lifelong learning.”
At the Culinary Classic, visiting chefs will get to experience the garden as well as being introduced to the family-run and responsibly-sourced local farms which dot the incredibly fertile countryside. At the school garden itself, the chefs will harvest and cook with the students as well.
Back at the hotel, an impressive line-up of guest events like a “Volcanic Vines and Wines” tasting, a special omakase dinner, after-hours parties, interactive culinary programs like a family-friend sushi masterclass, will culiminate in a seven-course Culinary Classic Dinner at CanoeHouse.
“It’s going to be an incubator,” Bruce says, with a grin. “Mixing mainland national chefs, chefs from the other islands, and bringing everyone together under one roof for three days of culinary bliss.”
For the complete line up, schedule and tickets, click here.
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