Makes one 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) tiramisu
The kitchen was my mom’s domain, and her domain alone. Because I was the youngest of three, she was a bit worn down by the time I came into the picture, so I was allowed to hang around as a quiet spectator and, every now and then, invited to participate. One of the first desserts I ever made with her was a tiramisù. I remember dipping the savoiardi into espresso and whipping eggs into mascarpone. I also remember eating at least half of it by the next morning. I’ve made many iterations of the classic, but this one, shot through with malted milk powder, is a real riff on both Italian and American culture. The nutty, toasty flavor of malt plays so well with espresso, somehow boosting everything around it. Topping it with crushed Whoppers is maybe a little extra, but if you ask me, it’s absolutely necessary.
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ cups brewed espresso
(1 ½ cups boiling water plus 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder)
3 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup malted milk powder
2 tablespoons rum
5 large eggs, separated
2 cups mascarpone
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
48 savoiardi (page 280) or store-bought ladyfingers (see note)
Cocoa powder, for dusting
1/2 cup malted milk balls, such as Whoppers, lightly crushed, for garnish
DIRECTIONS
In a large shallow bowl, whisk the espresso and 3 tablespoons of the sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Add 1/4 cup of the malted milk powder and rum and whisk until dissolved. 35 grams (1/4 cup) of the malted milk powder and the rum and whisk until dissolved.
In a stand mixer fitted with whisk, combine the egg yolks, remaining sugar, and remaining malted milk powder. Beat on high speed until the mixture thickens and turns pale, about 5 minutes. Switch to the paddle and add the mascarpone, vanilla, and salt. Beat on medium speed until the mixture is combined. Transfer to a large bowl.
Clean and dry the mixer bowl and whisk. Return to the stand mixer and beat the egg whites on medium- high speed until stiff peaks form, 3 to 5 minutes. Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture in two parts, folding until just incorporated.
Dip the savoiardi into the coffee mixture until saturated, 1 to 2 seconds on each side. Arrange a single layer of them in a 9 by 13-inch baking pan. Top with one- third of the mascarpone mixture, spreading it toward the edge in an even layer. Repeat this step two more times until you have used up all the cookies and cream.
Top the tiramisu with a dusting of cocoa powder, then cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. The longer it rests, the better the flavors will be.
When ready to serve, top the tiramisù with the malt balls.
The tiramisu can be wrapped with plastic and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
SAVOIARDI
Makes 48 cookies
NOTE: If making these to use in tiramisù, bake for an additional 2 to 3 minutes so they will better absorb the espresso mixture.
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon baking powder
5 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup granulated sugar, divided
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350°F and set racks in the upper and lower thirds. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, and baking powder. Give a quick whisk and set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add 1/4 cup of the granulated sugar. Increase the speed to medium- high and whisk until the mixture is glossy and thick, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Wash and dry the mixer bowl and whisk. Return to the mixer and add the yolks, vanilla, and remaining granulated sugar to the bowl. Whisk the yolks at medium speed until pale yellow in color, 8 to 10 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the mixer and add one-quarter of the whites to the yolks. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the whites into the yolks until just combined.
Sift the flour mixture over the egg mixture and gently fold again just until the mixture is incorporated. Gently fold in the remaining whites until just incorporated.
Transfer the batter to a large piping bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip. On one of the prepared baking sheets, pipe the batter in 3 1/2- to 4-inch logs, leaving about 1 inch between them, piping 4 rows of 6 savoiardi on each sheet. Dust with powdered sugar, let rest for 2 to 3 minutes, and then dust again. Repeat with the second baking sheet and remaining batter.
Bake until golden, but still soft to the touch, 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheet front to back halfway through. Let cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then use an offset spatula to transfer the cookies to a wire rack.
Once the cookies are cooled, transfer them to an airtight container until ready to use.
The savoiardi can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 to 3 weeks.
Credit line: From DOLCI! by Renato Poliafito with Casey Elsass. Copyright © 2024 by Renato Poliafito. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
